St. John, USVI - Sure, you can find pristine aquamarine waters and talcum-white beaches on sun-soaked isles around the world. But there aren't many oasis where you'll find sweeping jungle vistas, wild pigs roaming twisting mountain roads, quiet crescent beaches without a footprint in the sand - PLUS chi-chi boutiques, plenty of bars to keep you hopping, and seemingly as many restaurants per capita as the cement jungle of Manhattan. And here's the kicker. You never even have to leave the U.S.

St. John, the smallest and least densely populated of the three main U.S. Virgin Islands, is a 21-square-mile tangle of brightly blooming bougainvillea, bay trees and mangroves lapped by warm Caribbean waters. More than 9,500 acres of land and 5,600 acres of sea and coral reef are protected by the Virgin Islands National Park, thanks to Laurance Rockefeller, who became infatuated with the feral beauty of St. John in the 1950's and donated thousands of acres to the Department of the Interior.

Steeply winding roads, many of which are unpaved, offer breathtaking views of teal blue harbors enclosed by verdant hills. Sinuous hiking trails also crisscross the island, leading adventurers past 18th century sugar plantations, cliffs marked by mysterious petroglyphs, and isolated beaches shaded by sea grape trees. Offshore, colorful coral reefs, including a marked underwater trail in Trunk Bay (the most “touristy” and crowded of St. John’s otherwise secluded beaches), whet the appetite of amphibious explorers.

Photos by Scott Warnke Click HERE to see all pictures

Cruz Bay, one of only two towns on St. John, is this isle's answer to the Big City, albeit on a (blessedly) smaller scale. Here, you can browse for unique batik prints, jewelry, and cigars at Cruz Bay's Mongoose Junction, an upscale, multi-level outdoor mall made of volcanic stone. Book a reservation at your choice of more than a dozen in-town restaurants, including Stone Terrace, with its views of Cruz Bay Harbor, or Paradiso, boasting fine Contemporary cuisine, elegant decor, and the only air-conditioned dining room on the island.

Afterwards, belly up to your favorite bar with a Painkiller, a Virgin Islands specialty that combines nutmeg, pineapple juice, and copious amounts of rum. Popular Cruz Bay hangouts include Duffy's Love Shack, boasting a kitschy grass-roof-and-bamboo bar, Quiet Mon, an Irish pub that hosts frequent dart contests, or Woody's, a flip-flop friendly hole-in-the-wall where you can buy your drinks to go at a walk-by window or stake your place on the patio for some prime people - and poultry - watching. Yes, poultry. Cruz Bay's boutiques and bars haven't yet edged out the free-ranging hens that herd their chicks along the roadside.

Now that you know what to do on St. John, here's a look at where to stay when you get here.

Campgrounds. Let the sounds of the surf and the sea breeze rustling the leaves lull you to sleep at Cinnamon Bay Campground, situated alongside a mile-long strand of sugary sand in the Virgin Islands National Park. Rough it with a bare site or a canvas tent, or enjoy the relative comfort of a 15 x 15 foot cottage. Each cottage features two cement walls and two screened walls, as well as four twin beds and cooking facilities. You'll share cool-shower bathhouses with other guests, but you'll have the luxury of living next to one of the finest beaches on the island with snorkeling just offshore. The campground also features a general store, a restaurant, and a beach shop where you can rent snorkel gear, sea kayaks, sailboats and beach chairs. $27-$140 per night. 1-800-539-9998.

For a room with a view, check out Maho Bay Camps, offering 114 canvas tent-cottages perched on a lush hillside overlooking the teal waters of Maho Bay. While guests here also share communal shower facilities and bathrooms, each tent-cottage offers small indulgences like screened windows, a terrace, two twin beds, a propane stove, and electrical outlets. The Girl Scouts never had it so good. $75 - $120 per night. 1-800-392-9004. www.maho.org

Resorts. Guests who want to get away from it all - without giving up life's little luxuries, like air-conditioning, cocktail receptions and afternoon tea - opt for the rustic elegance of Caneel Bay. This 166-unit resort, nestled amongst old sugar mill ruins, encompasses 170 acres of national parkland and seven beautiful beaches. With no in-room phones or televisions, this laid-back retreat, founded by Laurance Rockefeller in 1956, has become a haven for Hollywood celebs like Michael J. Fox, Kevin Bacon and Alan Alda. Still, guests are hardly roughing it, with four fine restaurants, eleven tennis courts, complimentary watersports, a pool, and self-discovery programs ranging from kickboxing to meditation. $325-$1150 per night. Can’t afford a room, but still want a taste of luxury? Then try the delicious all-you-can eat buffet, hosted in a shady pavilion overlooking a tranquil crescent beach. $25 per person. 1-340-776-6111. www.caneelbay.com

Those who would rather not cut the cord to civilization can have their phone and TV, too, at the Westin St. John, a 34-acre amenity-rich resort cascading down a verdant hillside towards a 1,200-foot white sand beach. Boasting three restaurants, six tennis courts, a quarter-acre swimming pool, water sport equipment rentals and a spa, the Westin St. John strikes a crucial balance between this island's rural allure and the pampering that guests expect from an upscale getaway. Stroll along the herringbone brick pathways that connect the resort's 282 guest rooms and suites and 67 villas, and you might just come across one of the resident iguanas sunning itself on the manicured lawn or a mama mongoose defending her young from a whisker-licking cat. But the best performance is the nightly chorus of tree frogs which serenade you sight-unseen. Rates start at $289 per night. 1-800-808-5020, www.westinresortstjohn.com

Rent a villa. Make yourself at home on St. John by renting your own private villa. There are dozens of homes to choose from, ranging from one-bedroom efficiencies to compounds big enough to host the Osmond family reunion. You'll have plenty of privacy, and possibly even your own pool, plus you'll cut costs by cooking some meals at home. (For a wide gourmet selection, visit the Starfish Market in Cruz Bay. But beware of sticker-shock. A gallon of ice cream, for instance, goes for nearly $8). One rental company to try is Caribbean Villas & Resorts, (800) 338-0987, www.caribbeanvilla.com

Getting there: Fly into St. Thomas/Cyril E. King International Airport. From there, you can take a taxi to either Red Hook or Charlotte Amalie, which both offer ferry service to Cruz Bay on St. John. If you’re staying at either Caneel Bay and Westin St. John, the resorts can arrange to greet you at the airport and organize your transfer.

Getting around: You can rent a car from one of several companies in Cruz Bay, take the bus ($1 adults, 75 cents children), or call St. John Taxi (340-693-7530). For an informative guided tour, contact James Penn Enterprises and Taxi Service, 340-776-6414.

Entry requirements: U.S. citizens must present proof of citizenship. A birth certificate with a raised seal, presented in conjunction with a government-issued photo ID, should suffice. However, if you plan to visit any of the British Virgin Islands, you must bring a valid passport, as well.

Excursions: You’ll snorkel along the Virgin Islands’ most pristine reefs—and imbibe potent rum potions at some of the wildest beach bars—when you sign up for the “Jost Van Dyke, BVI Adventure Snorkel Sail” with the crew of the Adventurer, a 50-foot catamaran that departs from the dock of the Westin St. John. Passport required. $100 per person, plus $20 BVI Customs Fee, plus cost of lunch (about $10). (340) 693-8000 ext. 1832, www.adventurervi.com

Information: St. John Tourism Division Visitor's Bureau 1-800-372-8784, www.usvitourism.vi; www.usvi.net; www.st-john.com; www.usvi-on-line.com/usviforum.html