That is exactly what my husband, Scott, and I set out to discover during a visit to Hawaii’s most popular escape. You see, Scott simply can’t abide sunbathing. Oh, you might be able to teach a penguin to tap dance while juggling flaming batons. You could, given enough time and a government grant, potentially train a chimpanzee to recite all 21 stanzas of Don McLean’s “American Pie” by blinking them in Morse code. But the odds of convincing my husband to spend a week lying on the beach are about as likely as winning the lottery or being flattened by a meteor in your backyard. You would sooner spot Dracula surfing in a Speedo.

Fortunately, much of Maui’s beauty lies inland—and up. The island was formed by eruptions issuing from two volcanoes—West Maui Mountain, located (you guessed it) on the west side, and Haleakala, to the east. From the airplane window, we see frothy white clouds licking like thirsty waves at the slopes of Haleakala, which towers 10,000 feet high. Below, neat green fields tumble down towards a jagged coast dominated by dramatic cliffs. Once on the ground, we notice lush valleys to the west, partially obscured by clinging mists that seem at once ominous and intriguing.

Burning with curiosity (which is, at least, less painful than a sunburn), we leave our Solarcaine and coconut oil behind and head off to explore Maui’s “off-the-beach-en path” adventures.

Hit the Road

Maui boasts two spectacular—and occasionally heart-pounding—drives. The most famous is the road to Hana, which flirts with the northern coastline on the eastern half of the island. Flanked by waterfalls and offering bucolic views into river valleys, its beauty is legendary. So are its countless curves, which leave many drivers and passengers a bit unnerved.

Personally, we find Hana Highway a piece of cake compared to the hairpin turns around West Maui, which we navigate in a clockwise direction from Ma’alaea Bay. But the reward for taking the road less traveled is worth a little palm-sweating terror.

Though this drive doesn’t boast a lot of waterfalls, the views of the rocky coastline are even more stunning than those on the way to Hana. At one turnout, we pause for a brief hike to a lookout above the Nakalele Blowhole, where a plume of water bursts skyward with every surge of the waves. The most dramatic vista, however, is further north, where a promontory known as Kahakuloa Head juts 636 feet straight up out of the ocean. A slightly smaller hill, Pu’u Kahuli-‘anapa, stands beside it, creating the illusion of a giant, undulating serpent rising up from the sea. In the valley below, a tiny village, defined by a few white clapboard houses, a yellow school bus, and a little country church, nestles in a lush tangle of greenery.

The faint of heart may wish to turn back now, because as you descend into Kahakuloa village, the road narrows to a single lane. Further on, the sharp turns and sheer drop-offs will send your pulse racing. When you finally reach the town of Wailuku several miles later, be careful, because the road you’re on becomes one way from the other direction. Now how is that for excitement?

Saddle Up

Beyond Kahakuloa lies the Mendes Ranch, where we saddle up for a trail ride down to the coast. (If you wish to avoid the scariest section of the road around West Maui, you can approach the ranch by driving counter-clockwise from Central Maui).

Sitting astride our fiery steeds (well, okay, mine is more of a glowing ember, given my beginner status), we clip-clop down a dirt path through low-growing vegetation towards the ocean far below. We approach this postcard panorama at a relaxing pace which is made even more leisurely by the fact that our horses stop every few minutes to snag a bite of grass. (It may be true that you can’t make a horse drink, but the bigger challenge is trying not to let it eat).

When we finally reach the coastline, we pause to breathe in the briny scent and listen to the powerful waves pounding the cliffs. One of our guides points out nearby caves where sharks come to mate—a frightening thought as my willful mare sidles up to the edge of the cliff and dares me to yank her reins again as she bows her powerful head for another snack. Instead, I pat her tawny neck, tell her she’s a good horse, and silently pray she doesn’t buck me into the middle of a shark orgy. Still, I tell myself, you don’t get this kind of adrenaline rush sitting on a towel on the sand.

$110 plus tax for a 90 minute ride. Phone (808) 871-5222, www.mendesranch.com.

Hike into the Hills

Eager to explore those misty valleys we glimpsed on our first day, Scott and I sign up for a rainforest hike with Maui Eco-Adventures. Our guide is Mark Jenkins, a square jawed California transplant who serves up a witty, fact-filled commentary with the rapid-fire delivery of an auctioneer. “If you walk as fast as you talk, we’re going to be in trouble, Mark,” I wheeze as we begin our ascent into the hills of Waihee Valley.

Fortunately, our guide pauses to point out various plants along our path, from the bright red berries of raw coffee to the shiny dark green leaves of hibiscus. He tells us about the kokui nut tree, which produces oily nuts that Hawaiians once used as candles, and enlightens us about the various uses of ginger, which can alleviate motion sickness and help high blood pressure. (It also tastes pretty darn good in a stir fry.)

Shod in waterproof boots with cloven green toes known as Tabis, Mark helps us across numerous shallow river crossings and leads the way beneath a leafy canopy, where the twisted branches of trees writhe overhead like the flailing arms of an octopus. Our ultimate goal is a waterfall and pool at the end of the trail, where sweaty travelers strip to their bathing suits and wade into the cool depths.

We still haven’t so much as dipped our toes in the ocean, but here, in the shade of this pristine forest, we don’t feel as though we’re missing a thing.

Rainforest waterfall hike, $120 per person plus tax. Phone: (808) 661-7720, www.ecomaui.com.

(A note of caution: Some of Hawaii’s fresh water harbors deadly bacteria known as leptospirosis, which could enter your body through open cuts or through your eyes or by drinking it. When hiking, consult your guide before exposing yourself to any fresh water.)

Hungry for more adventures?

Maui is famous for the snorkeling and diving around Molokini Crater, just off the southwestern coast. In the winter months, you may even find yourself keeping company with whales, which come to Maui to calve between December and April. There are also a variety of whale-watching cruises which enable you to sidle up close and personal to these behemoths without getting wet—unless you get showered by a whale spout.

For another “peak” experience, consider setting your alarm early to watch the sunrise from the summit of Haleakala. Dare devils may even choose to bicycle down the slope of Haleakala after sunrise. Numerous companies offer cycling tours, though the fear of careening off the winding road into oblivion turns me off to the notion. (Scott, on the other hand, just doesn’t want to deal with the cold. Temperatures can dip in the low 30s atop the mountain, which can feel downright nippy when coupled with 30 mile per hour winds).

For more details and recommendations, check out “Maui Revealed: The Ultimate Guidebook” by Andrew Doughty, www.wizardpub.com.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: Delta flies directly from Atlanta to Maui.

Getting around: There are nearly a dozen rental car companies to choose from, including Budget at (800) 527-0700.

Where to stay: Wailea, located in South Maui on the eastern lobe of the island, is Maui’s most renowned resort area. Upscale hotels recline on vast green lawns which unfurl towards golden crescent beaches. A sinuous coastal walking path connects several resorts between the Fairmont Kea Lani and the Renaissance, allowing walkers and joggers to enjoy views of the shore and West Maui Mountain as they work up a sweat. Here are three of the most popular resorts.

Fairmont Kea Lani, a gleaming white structure where Moorish arches frame ocean views, offers spacious suites and villas. A small grocery within the hotel offers gourmet nibbles and wine. The grocery isn’t cheap, but if you don’t have a rental car to get to a Costco or Safeway, it is a more affordable option than the hotel restaurants. Phone: (808) 875-4100, www.fairmont.com/kealani.

Grand Wailea Resort boasts manicured gardens, waterfalls, a lakeside chapel and a 50,000-square-foot spa that has been named one of the Top 10 Spas in the United States by Conde Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure. Phone: (800) 888-6100, www.grandwailea.com.

Four Seasons Resort Maui, where everyone was buzzing about a Britney Spears sighting when we visited, features a promenade of fountains leading to a pool flanked by shady canvas cabanas. The Italian restaurant, Ferraro’s, offers excellent cuisine and courteous service. Phone: (808) 874-8000, www.fourseasons.com/maui.